旅人る - Tabibito
Domotkanovo, Chukavino, Stepurino
The following trip took place on June 24 2023, the day when the Wagner PMC mutiny rocked Russia. Early in the morning Prigozhin's troops went north from Rostov-on-Don to Moscow, occasionally downing planes and helicopters and destroying the barricades that government hastily built on their way. But the scheduled trip to Tver (further to the north from Moscow) couldn't be abandoned. Doomscrolling is less interesting than petting champion dogs, eating gigantic portions of food and wandering the forgotten nobility estates.
Domotkanovo
An estate south of Tver that belonged to Vladimir Derviz. His friend the artist Valentin Serov liked to stay here. Recently the main building was renovated.
The Serov Museum is still huddled in a simly annex.
Manor park with gazebos.
200 year old oak.
By the time we left Domotkanovo, an oil depot in Voronezh was bombed, and Prigozhin’s "fool gunner" shot down an Il-22 command aircraft.
Chukavino
The estate near Staritsa. The main house was built in 1751.
The annex was rebuilt many times, the last time at the beginning of the 20th century.
A burr.
A vase.
Temple of the Vladimir Icon of the Mother of God (1741).
It has a lot of interesting stucco sculptures on the facade.
Cemetery.
Gates.
The temple is open.
And operates in self-service mode.
On the walls the remains of frescoes can be seen.
Meanwhile, Kadyrov’s battalion was driving towards Rostov-on-Don, preparing for battles for the city center, and a column of "Wagnerites" had already been spotted in Yelets in 200 km from Moscow.
Stepurino
See also the previous report.
There are excellent roads here now (a year ago there were none), but other than that, not much has changed. At the local restaurant, the borzoi sighthounds are still begging for food.
Views of the village.
The village is not large enough to build a full scale fire depot. But there are volunteer firefighters with a car standing next to an ordinary house.
When it was time to drink tea with buns on the veranda, news appeared that the president of Belarys Alexander Lukashenko intervened in the situation with Prigozhin, and the mutiny ended as suddenly as it began. Retour à la normale.
Where to stay and eat (as of June 2023): "Usadba Kuptsa Bayeva". Just be sure to order dinner beforehand, as some of the dishes take time to cook.
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