旅人る - Tabibito

 

Chernyakhovsk

 

One of the most picturesque towns in Kalningrad oblast. It was formerly known as Insterburg and got his modern name in 1946 after Soviet general Ivan Chernyakhovsky. The very center of the town, The Old Market, was destroyed in WWII, but most of the other parts were spared.

 

Many houses got clean facades as a result of recent major repairs.

 

But it is a long way before all the buildings would be properly restored. Now the town mostly looks like St. Petersburg in 1990s. Gray and unkempt.

 

Especially the house on the crossing of Telman and Komsomolskaya streets.

 

Water tower (1898).

 

There is a nice cafe underneath with a cat guarding an empty beer glass.

 

Cats are abundant.

 

Former Lutheran church was transferred to Russian Orthodox.

 

While the Catholic church of St. Bruno of Querfurt was returned to Catholics.

 

Villa once belonged to a town mayor. Now a public kindergarten.

 

There are two castles in Chernyakhovsk. Insterburg castle near the town center is ruined.

 

Old roof tiles dismantled from the ordinary houses and replaced with new ones are waiting to be mounted on the castle's roof.

 

Georgenburg castle in the northern suburbs.

 

Town details.

 

About 30% of the Chernyakhovsk territory is occupied by various military bases. Soldiers live in old German barracks.

 

That's why there are so many military irredentism symbols all over the town.

 

Chernyakhovsk railway station.

 

Getting in (as of September 2022): first half of the route from Kaliningrad is an excellent highway, but the second half is interspersed with sections paved with old stones. So don't expect a comfortable ride. Buses are frequent but slow. Rail service exist only in summertime.

Where to eat: The Zelyony Kot ("The green cat") cafe near the water tower.

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