旅人る - Tabibito
Borodino
The site of the bloodiest battle of the Napoleonic Wars. In 1812, Russian troops under the command of Kutuzov fought here with Napoleon's Grande Armee. Although the French managed to win, their victory was Pyrrhic, and the Russian army was not truly defeated. Napoleon fell for Kutuzov's trick, took Moscow, which had been left without a fight, and then, after waiting in vain for a proposal for peace, was forced to retreat across the territory scorched by the war, eventually losing his entire army. The Battle of Borodino is of great importance for the patriotic self-awareness of Russians. There are many monuments to individual units of the Russian army that took part in the battle. Some of them are located right next to the road.
To others you have to go through ravines and fields.
The main thing is to arrive in good weather. And good luck with the clouds.
Most of the obelisks were erected for the 100th anniversary of the battle, in 1912. 10 years after the installation of these monuments, type art in Russia will die.
During the fighting of 1941-1942, many of the memorials were seriously damaged. On the stele of the 17th Infantry Division of General Olsufiev (Utitsky Kurgan) there are especially many traces of shrapnel.
In many places, monuments to the Napoleonic invasion (Patriotic War of 1812 in Russian terminology) coexist with monuments to the Great Patriotic War (WWII), bunkers and trenches.
The main monument to the Battle of Borodino is both the oldest and the newest. It was opened in 1839, demolished in 1932 and then restored in 1987.
Drones are banned
Among the most interesting memorials that you should definitely go to: the monument-chapel of the 7th Infantry Division of General P. M. Kaptsevich.
Tiled decoration.
The map of the battle on the floor, also made of tiles.
Pyramid of the 1st and 19th Jaeger Regiments.
Monument to the Imperial Guard Artillery Brigade with cannons on the sides.
And the 2nd Grenadier Division with grenades.
Monument to the Cavalry Guards and Horse Guards (you have to go to it from the main memorial).
Well, you don’t even need to go far to the Kutuzov monument: it’s right next to the highway.
A stele to the fallen Grande Armee.
In addition to the monuments, you can look at the Spaso-Borodinsky Monastery, built to commemorate the fallen Russians.
The monastery cat has a successful hunt.
Other creatures.
Smolensk Church in the village of Borodino (1697-1701).
The warning says "In church — only connect with God".
The recently restored royal travel palace.
The main museum of the battle.
Before the revolution, the surrounding area of Borodino Field began to be developed as dachas. It’s worth driving up to Gudkov’s original wooden estate in Psarevo.
If you drive from the field to the west, it is worth stopping at the Assumption Kolotsky Monastery. From its bell tower, Kutuzov chose the place for the battle in 1812. Most of the buildings were built or rebuilt in the 18th century.
Getting there (as of July 2023): Without a car, you can only explore 30% of the Borodino field in a day; and 75% with a car.
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